In diamond jewelry, the cut is one characteristic considered to be the most important. With a good cut, the quality of the final gem can offset a lower color quality or a generally poorer clarity.
On the other hand, a D-color (a very high rating), Internally Flawless stone will not live up to its high promise if the cut is poor. The inferior quality of the cut would reduce all of the diamond’s brilliance, sparkle and scintillation.
Ever since the beginning of diamond cutting in the mid-1300s, the techniques had evolved slowly through the years to what it is now today, which includes the use of lasers. It was in the 1600s when they found out that more facets meant more brilliance.
It was with the Single cut that the modern and popular Brilliant cut of today was founded. The modern round brilliant cut diamond had evolved into a round outline, symmetrical triangular and kite-shaped facets, a table and a small culet, which was optional.
Diamond cutting, though done in around 5 basic steps, is actually a very long and intense process. For the layman, knowing the lengthy procedures would afford one to appreciate the work done.
The natural shape of the original rough stone is the arbiter of the final shape of the finished diamond jewelry. Naturally oblong-shaped stones become marquises, ovals or pear shapes.
There might be near-perfect crystal shapes and they will more likely to become princess cuts or some other square cuts. Some large stones sometimes take a longer time to plan because of the fear of crystal wastage. They sometimes produce two gems out of one rough stone.
The first crucial step in making diamond jewelry is planning when the rough stones are being subjected to lengthy scrutiny. The planner (his only work) decides where to mark the stone to fashion out a profitable polished gem or gems.
Mistakes like incorrect markings and others can cost as high as thousands of dollars. The planner decides the size, clarity, and the direction of the crystal when marking. Cleaving in a wrong position can shatter a diamond stone and make it worthless.
Cleaving or sawing
After the planner’s markings, the stone is either manually cleaved or sawed. The saw is a diamond-coated rotary one, or a laser.
Bruting is the process where the worked-on diamond is being spun on a rotating lathe and another diamond is forced against it to gradually form a rounded outline at first.
This is the final stage of the cutting process where the diamond is given its finished proportions.
The first polishing stage is blocking. This establishes the diamond’s basic symmetry. It is here where the first 17 or 18 facets are made, creating a single cut. For very small diamonds, the process for them ends here.
The brillianteering stage is next for the larger diamonds where their final facets are polished. This will determine their brilliance and their fire, whether they will be dazzling beauties or dull stones.
For the cutter, the driving force is always to create a diamond jewelry masterpiece.